Beachs near Yogyakarta

Right after the new year, I took the kids on a little trip to Yogyakarta. Mr. Chef was working the whole weekend, and I was aching to see something green, so off we went. 

Yogya, located in Central Java, is about an hour’s flight from Jakarta, so it’s a fairly easy weekend trip. 

As is typical of me, I went without much of a plan beyond a vague idea that I might like to check out the beaches that hug the coastline south-east of the city. Once we got to the hotel, I wasn’t even sure that we’d end up checking out the beaches, as the traffic was much worse than I had anticipated (I was picturing pastoral vistas and vacant roads. We did get a few bucolic moments, but the city traffic was about as congested as Jakarta’s, and the thought of traveling to the coastline at a snail’s pace with two busy kids rattling around the back of a car did not much appeal. 

But Stella had her heart set on beach time, and she patiently did all the boring city stuff with me, so I felt it only fair that we go. Beach hopping in Yogyakarta is apparently 

The coastline outside Yogya is peppered with beautiful beaches. There are dramatic cliffs, rolling waves, black sand, and most exciting for me, fresh air and a view of the horizon. Many of the beaches are not that safe for swimming as the current is quite strong on the southern coast of Java. There are, occasionally, lifeguards on duty, but sadly I wouldn’t be that confident in their abilities to manage an emergency. So it’s a good idea to pay close attention to the conditions, and watch what the locals are doing: if most people seem to be wading no deeper than their shins, that’s as far as you should go too. 

We hired a car and driver through the hotel. The cost was pretty reasonable, less than 100 USD for the whole day, including petrol, but I’m quite sure with a little goggling, one could find something much cheeper. 

The beaches are not really that far from the city, only about 65 kilometres away. But in Indonesia, that short distance is not necessarily a quick trip. It took us about an hour and a half, maybe two hours to get to the beaches outside Yogyakarta. 

Pantai Baron

Our first stop was at Baron. This is the busiest of the beaches and the best for swimming. The beach is protected by an inlet, and it’s fairly safe to swim. The black sand beach is wide and spacious. There are traditional fishing boats pulled up out of the water.

At the beach for the cost of a dollar or two, you can rent an umbrella and a mat which is what we did. There are also pretty beat-up looking boogie boards and some inner tubes for rent near the water. The surf is great, I mean, great for a little kid and her mother running around in the waves. 

If you want to go a little further beyond the coastline, there’s the option of chartering a fishing boat to take you out for a joyride. I can’t vouch for their safety record, though.

We hung out for an hour or two, playing in the waves, having a great time. Then we went in search of some food. There are plenty of food vendors near the beach. You can buy fresh fish, caught that very morning, and the vendors will cook it up and serve it with rice and veggies. We opted for rice and fried chicken, with some fresh young coconuts to drink.

 

Pantai Kukup

After lunch we went a bit further up the coast to Kukup, which is a little stretch of sand flanked by some pretty dramatic cliffs. It was beautiful there, absolutely stunning, but not safe for swimming. There are tidal pools which are amazing for observing sea creatures, but they make the terrain rather precarious. Stella and I walked along a path to a lookout point, and enjoyed the afternoon sun for a while. We also poked around the vendors selling little beach trinkets and lots of hermit crabs. I enjoyed finding a quiet little spot where we I could drink in the view and watch the surf, but Stella was less impressed. This beach is probably better suited for older kids who would enjoy poking around the tidal pools.

Pantai Indrayanti

Finally we drove about 15 minutes further along the coast and stopped at Indrayanti. There’s a narrow stretch of sand here, with warungs lining the beach. Again, it’s totally gorgeous, but not that safe for swimming out very far. This is a good spot for lounging in the sand and taking in the gorgeous scenery.

If You Go

The concept of swimwear is totally different in Indonesia than it is in the West. This is partly because of modesty, and partly because bathing suits just aren’t a thing. Most people swim fully clothed. You should keep this in mind when selecting a bathing suit. I suggest not doing what I did, and packing a bikini only to realise that I’d be waaaaaaaay out of place. I ended up playing in the waves in my clothing just like everyone else.

Also, the sun is SO MUCH STRONGER here than in Jakarta (thanks, pollution.) I got pretty brunt despite applying sunscreen and wearing a teeshirt the whole day. I definitely recommend rashies and hats for little ones.

If you’re planning on beach hopping in Yogyakarta, I suggest not going on a busy long weekend. That’s when we ended up going, and the beaches were thronged with people. This wasn’t a problem, really, we still had a great time, it jeu tent the peaceful vistas I was craving weren’t quite so tranquil as I imagined.

If you’re caucasian, be prepared to pose for A LOT of pictures. So many people asked me to pose, or else took surreptitious pictures of my kids. I was a good sport about this at the beginning, but as the day wore on, I got more and more annoyed. But it can’t be helped really. This is a fairly remote place, and as a white person, you are kind of an anomaly.